Friday, April 9, 2010

Weds 3 Feb – another MOUSE story, in which we meet Flaubert the Fishermouse (you are not going to believe this!)

You may have noticed in the last entry I nonchalantly slipped in that we were buying a mouse trap. Be not deceived! This was a hard fought purchase! Darren wanted to get it, and I, of course, did NOT.

Back at Lake Quillilup I had thought I had heard a mouse in the caravan. Yes, well this one was not getting a name from me, was not going to be adored by me, and certainly not filmed by me, only to be eaten by some predator, or murdered by Darren. No-Ho this time I was gonna find it, and help it escape.
While we were still there I started to look for it, and in the storage area under one of the seats I saw it scuttle away down a hole towards the other seat.

Yes, we had a mouse.

Darren wanted to get a mouse trap, but fortunately, no mouse trap shops being near the lake, he was unable to get one until we reached Bremer Bay. I hoped against hope the little chap had got away before we took it on a 300 km journey (what would it’s family think?)

Unfortunately we had an inkling that he was still with us when we arrived at Miller’s Point. I talked Darren into postponing the placement of the trap (KILLING DEVICE), for a couple of days to see if I could get him out. I swept everywhere in the storage areas under the seating to get rid of the few mouse droppings, so I could work out if we did still have him or not.

But then DARREN WENT FISHING… … …

When he returned I went to meet him, and he was clutching his shoulder. Thinking he had hurt himself I anxiously asked if he was Ok, and he explained that while he was out there he had got a little chilled so had put on his hoodie that he had dumped in the bottom of the bot from the caravan. Later he had felt something around his neck, but just swept it away with his hand thinking it was an insect. It happened again. Darren kept fishing…
Suddenly Darren felt something SCUTTLE down his ribs towards his waist. With far more presence of mind than I could have mustered, he grabbed what was moving. He felt something small, soft, but firm… a mouse?
Using only one hand he immediately pulled in his rods, started the engine and headed for home.

Hearing this, I grabbed the camera, and he then revealed this intrepid mouse which was now around his collar area.
Again, so CUTE, even Darren was pleased he had not used the mouse trap on it. The mouse was very self possessed, and looked back at us, as if it was the most normal thing in the world to take a trip in a caravan, then go fishing with his host. He was quite happy climbing around Darren’s jumper.
Darren rushed off to show our French camping neighbours. I hoped that she was not going to be terrified of mice and set upon it with a hammer. After Darren had shown our little friend around, and after I had dubbed him ‘Flaubert the Fishing Mouse’, we let him go into the bushes, with many cries of good wishes and prayers that he may not be eaten, but find a comfy hole to survive in.
There just has to be a children’s book in that.

Still Mon 1st Feb Quick visit to Bremer Bay


Somehow still feeling spritely after a 300km trip , we decided to go and visit Bremer Bay, which is supposed to be very pretty. I think we thought it was closer than it was, as it proved to be a 100km round trip.
We visited the shop there, where one of the world’s most grumpy women works. We were the only ones in the shop, and you would think we were doing her a disservice being there. I can’t remember what we needed – ah yes, a mouse trap! (of that later…). I think we might have gone crazy and bought a couple of other things too, but boy was she crab central. And that’s not fair on crabs.
We scurried from there as though we had been burned by her icy stare, and made our way, for a MASSIVE treat to have a drink. We were making for the sports club – apparently where the 850 inhabitants of bremer Bay like to drink, but on the way passed a restaurant / bar, on a hill with ‘sea glimpses’ and an alfresco area. Sounds posh? It was very, which we discovered after we had bought a wine and a Guinness for a princely $16. Just as we were sitting down to enjoy our eye wateringly expensive drinks (this is not Manly you know, or London for that matter), when Darren remembered he had not bought bait, so had to rush off to Mrs Grumble-Bum’s Emporium, while I sipped a dollar a time on my wine. I had nothing much else to do, so took a picture of the Guinness – I think our 3rd drink in a bar since we left (when we weren’t staying with people). See above.
We took a drive to look at the beaches, which we eventually found, Bremer Bay apparently being on an inlet to the sea, either that or we got lost. It was quite pretty, but apart from a large caravan park, Mrs Grumble-Bum’s Emporium and the restaurant with most expensive drinks list outside Manly, we did not discover much. Probably should have gone to the Sport’s Club.
Shoulda-coulda-woulda.

Monday 1st February, Day 143, Lake Quallilup to Miller Point Camp, near Bremer Bay WA (332 Kms / 207 Miles)

That last night by the lake had not been great; it had been so windy I slept very little, always adding interest to my temper, and to a morning of putting down the caravan and trying to get it down before the bees got up.

Today we were making our way to another of the ‘free’ spots Darren’s fishing shop friend had showed him. This, some 300 Kms away. Not a great deal happened on this trip. I remember the day was very hot, and when we stopped for lunch there was an information board about the pioneers of the area, and also a map, which we compared to Darren’s drawn one. They looked pretty similar so we faithfully followed it.

You never really know what to expect when you are bumping down an unsealed road to the next camp spot. Will there be loads of people? - we generally have a bet on that. Will it have a good view? Will there be shade? Will it be near the sea? Darren – will there be somewhere I can fish? Victoria – what will the facilities be like, will there be any?...etc etc.
We drove down the 10 Kms of unsealed road and into some trees, the road would past some fishing shacks, where the professional fishermen come to do their fishing during the season, and then we were out onto a wooded point that pushed out into a wide river that ran to the sea. There were 3 or 4 caravans (even 1 or 2 is quite a few in our experience) and few other campers, but there was room for all. We found a shady spot under some trees right by the water’s edge, which looked back up to the curve of the river as it rounded the bend flowing towards us. This was West, so sunsets were spectacular.
Love it when a plan comes together.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Lake Quallilup – the Bee Movie

We stayed there for 4 nights, but have I mentioned the bees? This place was dry; dry of fresh water. The lake was very saline and there was no fresh water for miles, just what we had brought with us. When we arrived at dusk there were no bugs to speak of – always a good sign. However after we had thrown out some washing up water on the first day we noticed a lot of humming coming from outside the caravan. When we investigated there were quite a few bees (looking like the European wasp, but NOT the European wasp), congregating around where our water flows out of the caravan. That evening there were quite a few more and with the ‘Secret Life of Bees’ in my mind I went about smiling and calm through them so they wouldn’t sting me. The next evening word had clearly got out, and at the first smell of fresh water there were swarms of em. Darren wanted a shower so we drove the car away from the caravan where they had congregated and he tried to have a quick shower before they got a sniff of the fresh water. It did not take long. Soon Darren and 20 or so bees were all showering together. This is where I firmly drew the line, better to smell than be stung that became my motto. The days were so hot though, that by 3 pm all the water had evaporated away and only a few hopeful bees hummed about. But at the start of each day there was condensation that had collected on top of the roof from the cool nights, and the bees were going crazy for it. By the fourth day all washing up was banned (hooray!), and even teeth washing was an exercise (in that we had to walk some distance away to wash ‘em). On the last day, Darren of course needed some David Attenborough footage so washing up was done and after the caravan had been folded down, we threw out the water…

Sat Jan 30th and 31st – Fishing!


If Darren was writing this you would not believe him.
We had spent a day or so at the lake before D put the boat in, but o Saturday evening he went out to try his luck. I settled down to read. After only an hour he came back, having caught loads of fish – he gave some to the people who were here for the day with their kids.
On Sunday we decided to go out for a proper explore of the lake, which was very large. We had been told the best fishing was to the East, at the further end of the lake from us, and that it narrowed, then opened out again at this east end.
Armed with books, towels, sunscreen, snacks etc we set out. Sure enough at the east end there was a hidden channel with dead trees growing in it that Darren navigated his way around into another pool with more dead trees.
We stopped on the shore and Darren got fishing. I kid you not when I say he was catching a fish every time within 15 seconds of throwing out his lure. Unfortunately we only have so much room in our freezer and D had to let many go. There was so little fun in the fishing itself, that Darren made a ‘fish tree’ out of the spoils. It was almost too easy; absolutely no effort or struggle was involved at all. It was almost boring! - - - Fishing? How can that be?

A note on the ‘Facilities’ at Lake Quallilup




Being a polite sort of girl, I have spared you the details of a lot of the toilet arrangements on our trip (for which you should be MOST grateful) – but this time we experienced the ultimate in bush toilets. This takes a laid back attitude to doing your business, to a whole new level.

We had been told by Darren’s fishing shop buddy that there were facilities at the lake. When we arrived, because it was nearly dark, we didn’t see any building that it could possibly be.
Ah, but next morning Darren pointed out the loo to me…
As I mentioned, there was a large area of open land at one end of the lake, and then trees haphazardly surrounding the rest of the lake. We were camped in the open part, and then behind that was heavy bush land. Well, just in front of that bush land, about 100 metres from the caravan, on the edge of the open area, there was what looked like a blue tub, about the height of an esky*, and the diameter of….
“That’s your loo” says Darren.
“That’s a tub someone left behind”, says I.
“That’s your loo”, says he. ”Go and look”.
“You are kidding”, says I, and went to look.

Well, he was right. It looked like a round blue esky with a white lid, but it wasn’t. When I opened the lid, there was the loo seat, and beyond plunging into the depths was a hole of darkness.
Well, this was certainly the best ventilated toilet block I had been in (that’s a plus). It also, naturally, wins the prize for the loo with the best view (couldn’t BE more natural, in fact). I suppose you could, if you had the guts, just calmly walk up, while people water skied on the lake, and fished from the shore, get out your newspaper for a comfortable read, and settle down to do your morning business… OR you could get up at 5 a.m., run there, run back and congratulate yourself on a job well privately done.

New game: spot the loo, with the view, in the photoo …

Sat 30 Jan , the Great Ocean Drive around Esperance and a full moon






Left early for Esperance, which is about 30 kms away. There is a scenic drive which covers a few of the local beaches and a wind farm, which was too good to miss.
Pretty much every Australia guide I have come across (think 12 years bookselling and 12 years in publishing) has had a photograph of an Esperance beach on it. As we had been camping in the locale of Esperance, we felt it was about time to sample some of the delights of Esperance and take the ‘Great Ocean Drive’. At 32 Kms it is considerably shorter than that of its friend in Victoria. But how beautiful! How turquoise! How white! How jammy am I?!

Our first stop was Blue Haven Beach which was reached by wooden steps down to the white sand. Ah, this is what I had remembered from 15 years ago; wading out to the neck, and still being able to see your feet! Azure blue, turquoise, call it what you will, clear is what it is. The sand is so white and like talcum powder, it ‘poofs’ up at every step. The waves are larger here, not great for surfing, but big enough for a bit of body surfing…if you can do it. I can’t. It seems boys in general can. Either that or it is handed down in the Aussie DNA. Still, I’m happy to splash about in the water and look at my feet puffing up the white sand, while I try and stay out of view of Darren and his waterproof camera - honestly even underwater you can’t get away!

Next stop observation point, which is VERY windy, as you can tell by the photo. To the left and right, more perfect beaches.

Lastly, the wind farm. Now I know this is a rather contentious subject, but I really like wind farms. I think they look wonderfully majestic, and when I see one think that maybe the world is going in the right direction after all. I have always wanted to walk around one, and here we were able to walk right up to one of the smaller turbines…. (which looked gigantic to me), and I spent a happy 10 minutes taking photos of it and it’s shadow.

As we made our way back to Esperance I took a photo from the car of the road running down to wards the sea (see above). When I later looked at it, and compared it to my Australia Lonely Planet, I realised my photo and its photo were almost identical - I may make a travel journalist yet.

Oh yes, the full moon – it rose over the lake like something out of a B movie, but it was quite spectacular, and was so bright! No torches needed in the middle of the country side that night. Darren and I spent ages trying to get good photos of it – he was definitely more successful than I, as mine kept showing 2 moons in my photos. I know my eyesight is shocking, but I’m pretty sure there is only one. At least, that is what I’ve been told…?