Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Innamincka to Birdsville - via Cordillo Downs Road (301Km of Hell's Road)


We were warned not to take the short road to Birdsville, due to deep sand in places on the road. As we are trying to be sensible, we took the next shortest route, via Cordillo Downs, a homestead which has the largest sheep shearing shed in Australia. This part of the journey would be 301Km (187 miles). A long long road.
As we travelled, it was as though the farmers had "ploughed the fields and scattered" thousands of stones across their fields. What did they want to grow? Boulders? Miles and miles of bumpy , rocky road, surrounded by fields of stones - literally. Occasionally there were dry creek beds to cross, and the road would suddenly curve around for no apparant reason, then go down into the creek bed, and then up the other side to another - field of stones. Amazing.
As we went across these fields of stones it looked as though the road should continue straight, but it would suddenly turn in a great arc, seemingly to avoid some massive obstacle, not visible to the naked eye; and then resume it's trajectory. After avoiding 40 or so of these invisible boulders, and crossed as many winding creek beds, we were O-V-E-R IT.

We had a minor break from this tedium when we stopped to look at the largest shearing shed in Australia. There were quite a few old pieces of equipment in it, which darren and I had fun playing with.
We also stopped to look at Caldega homestead ruin. This had an old car out the back of it, so there were some good photo opportunities. It is extraordinary how the people survived in this harsh landscape. I am amazed they survive today - especially after all those stone fields.

At last, after 275 Km and 26 Km before the road met the highway (no bitumen) to Birdsville, we crossed over from SA to QLD. The road improved dramatically, and with lighter hearts and a deal more chat (rather than the stony silence - groan), we arrived at our turning.
Just before we met the 'highway', we were travelling on a road higher than it, and could look down on the highay. We saw a massive pile of dust moving along it. We could just make out the road train which was chewing up the road and belching out behind it what looked like massive bushfire smoke. For those not in the know, Road trains are huge trucks which transport freight across the interior of Australia. Often they have 2 or 3 trailers behind them. If you are driving towards one on an unsealed road it is best to ideally stop and get off the road while it passes, because it creates such a dust storm in its wake you can't see a thing till it has settled. then continue on your way. ( See attached video - very exciting!) the truck we were looking at made for a good photo opportunity. I really felt we were out there amongst it.

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